I start in a bit to make this safer and more controllable. I like to use a bench hook and a wide chisel for this. Next we need to turn that in to an octagon. We now have a square ‘ish’ section of wood. It’s a lot easier if you’re blanks are close to square, so I refine them with a chisel by splitting a slither off one side. After making one or two you’ll get the feel. How much bigger you stay will depend on your experience. I was always taught to split in halves whenever possible, so I split the first half, then split those halves in half etc, until I have a load of bits that are close but still quite a bit bigger than the diameter that I need. This extra length makes it easier to handle, but more importantly allows some flexibility in your taper. Here I’m cutting my blank to 4″ for pegs that will go in to a 2″ thick table top. You need to cut your blank much longer than the thickness of the material you’re pegging in to. You could also rummage about for a perfect bit of sawn stuff for this, though Method Two is better suited for using sawn material. I normally use riven wood for this, that’s wood which has been split from the log rather than sawn, as this way you’re almost guaranteed to get that straight and more importantly, parallel grain. You should also use a good stiff hardwood like oak, and be sure it’s nice and dry. This is all about timber selection, as we need a peg that’s straight grained and with the grain running parallel in both planes. In this post we’ll look at my favourite method for peg making – the ‘Split & Whittle’. When you’re draw-boring, or just reinforcing a joint, you need a peg that’s strong.Ī good wooden peg should be straight grained, slightly tapered and preferably made up of a series of flats. A good peg, is a lot more than a roughly ragged out bit of round wood.
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